FOOD | MENTAKEDARAH

Pork Street Boys

Ho Ah Ngan

Ho Ah Ngan’s grandfather sold char siu pung (pork rice) in Guangdong, China, and brought his recipes along when he migrated to Melaka. A hundred years later, Ho Ah Ngan uses his grandfather’s recipes in his own famous food stall. This is in a place called Medan Makan Boon Leong Bunga Raya, known to locals as “Hungry Lane”. from the time when it had a cluster of well-known food stalls. Today only two stalls survive. In the day, Mr Ho sells pork dishes there and at night, or chien (oyster omelette) is available, from another three generation-old business.

Ho kindly showed us the wooden pole his grandfather had used to cart food around, all those years back when Jalan Hang Jebat was Jonker Street.

With pork rice seller
Ho Ah Ngan, 79

Conversation on
6 March 2020
in Malay

Medan Makan Boon Leong Bunga Raya
off Jalan Bunga Raya

My grandfather came from Guangdong, China. You see this pole? This was the pole he used, a hundred years ago. Rice would go in front, and in the back, pork and condiments. He would sell his food walking along Jonker Street and nearby areas. He would carry a small table, and chop the meat up while the customer waited. It was less crowded than now, but still crowded, with rice-sellers and all sorts of other tradesmen. 

When my father grew up, he took up a spot in this place [today’s Medan Makan Boon Leong Bunga Raya]. That was before the war. There was no roof then. If it rained, they used canvas. Later, Gan Boon Leong {a Malaccan bodybuilder, politician and philanthropist] sponsored the roof. At that time a plate of char siu rice cost 30 cents, maybe twice that with extra meat. Now it’s much more, RM6 a plate. 

We’ve been here ever since. We don’t pay rent, we only pay for a licence. I sell char siu rice, the guy in front of me sells curry rice. I also sell roast pork, home-made sausages, and I used to sell roast duck, but no longer, because they say it causes pain in the legs. We’re closed on Thursdays. 

Though Malays don’t eat pork dishes I learned to speak Malay, because many Babas talk to me in Malay. When I was young, they would ask me for a spoon and I wouldn’t know what they were saying. 

There are nine of us, I’m the eldest. I’ve lived in the same wooden house in Bunga Raya since I was three years old, till now. Hopefully my nephew will be the fourth generation to continue this business.

THIS WAS THE POLE GRANDPA USED, A HUNDRED YEARS AGO. RICE WOULD GO IN FRONT, AND IN THE BACK, PORK AND CONDIMENTS.

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